Mechanical brakes rely on a steel cable that stretches over time, leading to a "mushy" feeling and frequent adjustments. NUTT Full Hydraulic Brakes use fluid to transfer power, providing:

• Effortless Braking: Stop with just one finger, even at high speeds.
• Consistent Power: No cable friction or stretch means maximum force reaches the pads every time.
• Self-Adjusting: As pads wear down, the hydraulic pistons automatically move closer to the rotor.

Yes. Because hydraulic fluid is incompressible, the response is instantaneous. Most riders report a 30-50% improvement in stopping confidence and significantly shorter emergency braking distances compared to stock mechanical setups.

You need to check three things:

1. Mount Type: Most scooters use A-pillar (Post Mount) or B-pillar (IS Mount). Our kits include adapters for standard 140mm/160mm rotors.
2. Hose Length: Measure your current brake lines. Our standard set comes with 1350mm (Front) and 2200mm (Rear) hoses.
3. Electronic Connector: Check if your current lever uses a 2-pin (Red) or 3-pin (Yellow) waterproof Julet plug for the motor cut-off.

NUTT uses an Open System with an integrated reservoir in the lever. This allows the system to handle heat expansion much better than closed systems, preventing "brake fade" during long descents.

Yes. All NUTT brake kits are pre-bled and factory-sealed. If your scooter has external cable routing, you can install them in 20 minutes without touching a drop of oil.

Standard installation requires only:

• 4mm and 5mm Allen Keys (Hex wrenches).
• A pair of scissors or a utility knife (if you need to trim zip ties).
• Isopropyl alcohol (to clean rotors if you accidentally touch them).

Use Mineral Oil only.

WARNING: Never use DOT fluid (used in cars). DOT fluid will corrode the seals in NUTT brakes and cause total failure.

This depends on your riding style, but generally:

• Commuters: Every 800-1200 km.
• Aggressive Riders: Every 500 km.

If the braking material is less than 1mm thick, it’s time for a replacement.

Squealing is usually caused by contamination. Even a small amount of oil from your fingers or road grime can cause noise. Clean your rotors with Isopropyl Alcohol and lightly sand your pads to restore the friction surface.

This is a classic sign of air in the system. This can happen after a crash or if the hose was disconnected during installation. A simple "lever bleed" will remove the air bubbles and restore the firm feeling.